Size and shape
The area of concrete is the starting point, but shape matters almost as much. A simple rectangle from the garage to the boundary is quick to form and finish. Curves, splays at the crossover, turning bays, cut-outs around trees or garden beds and multiple level changes all add formwork, cutting and finishing time. Two driveways with the same area can take very different amounts of work.
Access for the truck and crew
Can a concrete truck back up close to the work and pour straight in? On a wide Brighton East or Beaumaris frontage it often can. On a narrow Elsternwick block, a long driveway to a rear garage or a site with power lines and trees overhead, it may not. Then the options are a line pump, a boom pump or barrow work, each of which adds equipment and labour. Access also affects excavation: if a small excavator cannot get in, digging and spoil removal take longer.
What is there now
Removing an old driveway is often a significant part of the job. Factors include:
- thickness and reinforcement of the old concrete, since thick, reinforced slabs take longer to break up
- what it is made of : concrete, asphalt, pavers, bluestone, gravel or a mix
- disposal : rubble is loaded, carted and recycled or disposed of
- surprises underneath , such as an older slab beneath a newer one, buried building waste or materials that may contain asbestos, which must be handled by licensed removalists
Ground conditions and excavation
The new driveway needs a stable base. That means digging out soft material and laying compacted crushed rock. How much depends on the ground:
- Sandy coastal soils drain well but need careful compaction.
- Clay soils , more common further inland, may need more base and attention to moisture.
- Fill or soft spots need to be dug out and replaced.
- Tree roots may need an arborist's advice, root barriers or design changes.
The deeper the excavation and the more base material needed, the more the job involves.
Thickness and reinforcement
A driveway carrying a small car is different from one carrying a heavy SUV, a work ute, a caravan or a boat trailer. Thicker concrete and heavier reinforcement suit heavier loads. Specifying this properly is not an optional extra; it is what stops the driveway cracking. When comparing quotes, check that each states the thickness and reinforcement so you are comparing like with like.
The finish
Finish choice is one of the biggest variables you control:
- Plain broom or trowel finish: the simplest.
- Coloured concrete: adds pigment and usually sealing.
- Exposed aggregate: adds decorative stone, extra steps on the day and sealing.
- Stencil, stamped or banded designs: add materials and skilled labour.
- Honed or polished: adds grinding, available on request for suitable projects.
See exposed aggregate and decorative concrete for options, and exposed aggregate vs pavers vs plain concrete for a comparison.
Drainage
Water has to go somewhere. If your driveway can fall to the street or a garden, drainage is simple. If the garage sits lower than the road, or the driveway is long and flat, grated trench drains and pits connected to your stormwater system and the legal point of discharge may be needed. Fixing drainage properly costs more up front but prevents water damage to garages, walls and the driveway itself.
The crossover and council requirements
If the crossover is being built, widened, relocated or replaced, a council permit is needed, and the crossover must be built to the council's standard drawings. That can involve:
- preparing a plan for the application
- approvals from owners of nearby assets
- council permit fees (set by the council)
- footpath and kerb reinstatement
- inspections before or after the pour
- pedestrian management on the footpath
Each council differs. See our Bayside crossover permit guide and vehicle crossovers page.
Heritage and planning
In heritage overlay areas, changes visible from the street can need planning consideration. If your design needs a planning permit or specialist advice, that adds time and possibly cost. Checking your planning property report early avoids surprises.
Sealing and extras
- Sealing after curing, with the number of coats and sealer type affecting the job
- Conduits under the driveway for lighting, gate motors or EV charging
- Matching paths or a bin pad poured at the same time
- Edging, steps or retaining where the driveway meets gardens or level changes
Timing and weather
Very hot, windy days and wet weather affect pouring and finishing. Most concreters plan around the forecast, and occasionally a pour has to move. Flexibility on dates can help.
How to compare quotes fairly
When you have more than one quote, check that each covers:
- demolition and disposal of the old surface
- excavation depth and base material
- concrete thickness and reinforcement
- the exact finish and stone blend
- control joints and their layout
- drainage
- crossover works and who handles the permit
- sealing
- clean-up
- exclusions, such as rock, roots or asbestos
A quote that looks lower may simply leave things out.
Where you can save, and where you should not
Reasonable places to save:
- choose a plain or coloured finish instead of decorative
- simplify the shape
- keep the existing crossover if it is sound and the right width
- stage the job, such as driveway now and paths later
Places not to cut corners:
- base preparation and compaction
- reinforcement and thickness
- drainage
- control joints
- curing
Those are the things that decide whether the driveway lasts.
Driveway cost FAQs
Because access, old concrete, ground, drainage, finish and council requirements all change the job. A site look lets us give you a written quote that reflects your actual driveway.
It generally involves more materials and steps, so it usually costs more than a plain finish. Many owners feel the look and low upkeep are worth it.
It depends on the pavers, the base, the area and the site. Both need proper base preparation. Our comparison guide explains the practical differences without prices.
If the crossover is involved, yes. Council permit fees are set by each council; check their website for current amounts.
Gravel or crushed rock is lower cost up front but needs topping up and does not suit every site or council. Plain concrete is a durable middle ground.
Get a real number
The fastest way to know what your driveway will cost is a free site look and a written quote.